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I got two rows of pleats and two rows of double ruffles onto the gown. I made the pleats and the ruffles were pre-purchased trim. Then I put satin bias tape over the join of the pleats/ruffles.

Progress photos:

making the pleats with Beth's antique pleater. I used 22 yards of 60" fabric. The pleats are 5" wide.





After I ironed the pleats into place, I removed them from the pleater, reset them into place, and used masking tape to hold them in place until I could baste them. Then I rolled up that section and did it again eleventy billion times.



Here are two rows of pleats



Then I sewed on two layers of double ruffles and covered the join with satin bias tape. They are made of pleated chiffon, and were very fiddly so I had to pin them about every inch and a half. Took forever, but I love it. Looks like the fashion plate!



Then I ripped off the overskirt because I realized that I have to fix it. The fashion plate has ruffles covering the whole thing, but I did side pleats that created drapes. I can't attach ruffles over draping and folds, so those have to come out. I also have to get a dart into the overskirt so it doesn't bunch up all weird, but lays nice and flat so I can get the trim on.

exquisite!

Date: 2010-03-27 02:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dinahprincedaly.livejournal.com
the antique pleater is amazing... are some of the teeth higher than others? do you have to make the pleats always the same measure? does one side pop off or do you have to thread the fabric through from the end?

Re: exquisite!

Date: 2010-03-27 03:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
I posted a photo of the pleater below. It's just like a heating floor vent but with "legs". You use a metal "stick" to push the fabric through. You can push it through any of the slats (I pushed it through every other three), so your pleats can be any width you want, and the repeat can be any depth you want by pushing it down a lot or a little.



Date: 2010-03-27 02:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] vanessa-lynne.livejournal.com
Yes, beautiful!

Can we see the pleater in more detail?

Date: 2010-03-27 03:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
I also posted a few more "in action" pics above. Let me know if you need anything else. I'm borrowing this pleater from a friend and wish to god I had one of my own!

Date: 2010-03-28 02:34 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoneyes19.livejournal.com
Rob says "how big is it" i have evil plans for him to make me something similar...want one too?

Date: 2010-03-28 11:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
YES!!! Oh heavens be praised! Thank you!

Honestly, the dimensions are whatever you want them to be. This one can make pleats up to 7" tall, but you might want one that can accommodate 10" tall pleats. And the pleater height (how high off the table) also depends on how deep a repeat you want. This one can do a smidge over an inch. The slats need to be just big enough to push fabric through.

Date: 2010-03-28 01:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoneyes19.livejournal.com
awesome. He says that seems simple enough to construct, so we'll see what he comes up with. I love having a handy man

Date: 2010-03-27 03:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sakara75.livejournal.com
WOW!!! WOW WOW WOW.......yep WOW.

Where on earth did you find an antique pleating device?

Date: 2010-03-27 03:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
I borrowed it from a very good friend. But she's assured me that large men without a conscience will retrieve it if it's not returned...lol!

Date: 2010-03-27 05:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] oldhalloween.livejournal.com

The old pleating machines are so darn expensive I wish someone would manufacture these gems again. I made a jumbo version of the Pretty Pleat 1 used for dolls out of a plastic coated election sign to make 1 inch pleats. LOL

Date: 2010-03-27 06:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com
Beautiful skirt!

And the pleater--just wow. They need to make those again :)

Date: 2010-03-27 06:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] my-stitching.livejournal.com
Love how it is turning out!

Date: 2010-03-27 07:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bauhausfrau.livejournal.com
Wow. That's just fantastic Kat, right out of a period fashion plate.

And the pleater is to die for!

Date: 2010-03-27 08:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jenthompson.livejournal.com
OMG! I'm swooning over your dress AND that pleater!

Date: 2010-03-28 04:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mr-cutiepants.livejournal.com
totally awesome! it came out beautifully too!

I wish I had one. Would be much cheaper and less annoying than paying $$ to take fabric to the pleater in the garment district every time I need to make some matching trim... :(

Date: 2010-03-28 09:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nehelenia78.livejournal.com
Absolutely adorable!!!

Date: 2010-03-28 11:15 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] medvssa.livejournal.com
Wow, great work, and great pleater!

Date: 2010-03-29 12:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] aseret-black.livejournal.com
I have a tremendous weakness for pleats so all I can mumble is "wow, thank you, thank you, holy cow, wow!"

Date: 2010-03-29 04:52 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chloeandrudy.livejournal.com
What a fabulous tool! I would be in pleat heaven with it. Your skirt looks beautiful.

Date: 2010-03-29 08:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] robinia-acacia.livejournal.com
That looks amazing, well done!
And I have to join in the others, the pleater is amazing!!
*goes to hunt on ebay*

Date: 2010-03-29 04:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marcine.livejournal.com
Your skirt and its glorious pleats is fabulous! Wow! 22 yards of cloth to make all those pleats...that's a LOT of cloth. Yowsa. Worth it for that wonderful look.

Date: 2010-03-30 12:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] violetsonfire.livejournal.com
It looks beautiful so far, I can't wait to see the finished skirt. And I know that everyone else has said it, but the pleater is pretty awesome.

Date: 2010-03-31 06:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lmcbeth.livejournal.com
Oh, I must have missed post! I'm glad I checked back to see your progress! It's beautiful! Is the skirt very heavy :)?

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