madamemodiste: (1830's)
A photographer at the convention got a great shot of the gown. YAY!! I was really hoping someone had gotten a full-length shot!


A good bodice detail shot here )

1830's hair

Sep. 8th, 2008 04:03 pm
madamemodiste: (1830's)
Hrm...the hair piece I tried to make out of the cheap hair has failed. It looked fuzzy and awful. I had a feeling I was using the wrong king of hair. The texture wasn't smooth and it just looked like three ratty lumps! No amount of hair product was going to change the texture of the hair, so it's back to the drawing board.

At least it seems that the fan-on-a-comb is successful!

I was considering styling my own hair for the top knot and loops, but since my long hair is also layered to reduce bulk, I fear that won't work. There would be pieces sticking out and flying around. Not the look I'm going for, eh? So I guess I'll pop to the hair store tomorrow after school and see what else they have. I'll bring a photograph so the ladies can help me!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
So I have a cheap pack of fake black hair (loose, not on wefts)

I played with the long hank like it was a ribbon and made three loops. I used black craft wire (19 gauge) to help hold them in shape and then used the wire to attach a comb. The side you see will be showing when you look at me.

Next I have to attach flowers and ribbons to dress it up and hide the wire and ugly bulk at the base.

I also have a gorgeous mini fan to put in my hair (thanks for finding it, [livejournal.com profile] trystbat!)



Suggestions and pointers needed, please!
madamemodiste: (1830's)


I thought I'd reward your patience with a shot of the completed bodice (minus back closure!). I really like it. I just hope the darn thing doesn't make me look like a big marshmallow!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I made a mistake putting the skirt together. I didn't hem it before I gathered it and attached it to the bodice. Even though the directions said I could do that if I chose. So now it's all full and when I turn the hem under for the 5" deep hem, the lining runs around and sags and does weird things. I'm dealing with it, but it's been such a pain today. I'm disappointed because I really thought I'd have this baby done today so I could enjoy my weekend and make 1830's topiary hair.

I've finally got it turned under and pressed. I think from here I will serge the very end (already turned up)and hand tack it to the lining. Will that be ok?

So, still to do

1)hem
2)back closure
3)belt

Oh, and I should tell you that the bodice is lovely! The sleeves are so cute, too!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
Some patterns call for you to line sleeves with stiff netting...such as 1890's and 1830's. I don't bind the seam allowance or use a lining, so the netting rubs most uncomfortably into my arm. Other than binding it with bias tape, is there any other trick? Probably not, I figured I'd ask anyway!

Thanks!

By the way, the zig zag "Colleen Atwood" bodice is complete except for back closure and button decoration on the front. I think I did it!! Can't wait to show you when it's done!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
For SalonCon in 2 weeks, I'm making an 1830's evening gown of purple/black shot taffeta. I am using Heather's Romantic Era gown pattern and modifying it to have a bodice like this:

http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=10

Minus the fancy embroidery. If you click on the photo with graph paper, it shows the pattern for this gown.

So, I've never piped anything before and I need some encouragement! Getting around the points of the zig zags is very difficult!!

I've made the base, attached the ruched middle layer, and cut out the "zig zag" top layer. I want the edges of the zig zags on the top layer to be piped as well as the neckline. Here's what I have done. Am I anywhere close to doing this right???



The yellow circle is the area I did a closeup on in the next photo

madamemodiste: (Default)
I'm looking for some inexpensive (read: under $25) painted floral fans of Oriental or plain olde French design with no people/figures, in black with purples in the floral design. I'm staying away from anything obviously Spanish looking as it won't go with my ensemble, so I'd prefer no lace if possible. For some reason, I'm not seeing anything on Ebay or Google that I like (my usual favorite, Lands Far Away, has yielded nothing). Anyone have any favorite US based-only suppliers?

(I'm not interested in making my own)

This is my inspiration (the one in her hair):

madamemodiste: (1830's)
Besides pearls, can anyone tell me what necklace and earring styles were popular in the 1830's at the hight of the big sleeve movement? I can't really find anything online that gives me any idea. Send me image links, please, if you know of any!

Many thanks!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I saturated my petticoat in a liquid starch solution - just to above the top cord so that the waistline is still comfortable - in the bathtub. Then I let it dry till it was damp and then ironed it to "activate" the starch. It's really stiff and looks much crisper than without starch, but there isn't the "wow" difference I was looking for. Hopefully, it will do something remarkable in keeping the gown in the right shape.



Here it was without starch so you can see the difference )

I'm thinking...instead of making another cotton petticoat to go over this one, maybe I should make one from that soft crinoline at Joann's (the stuff I made my Buccaneer's hat from). It's already stiff and I think would do a better job than a cotton, tucked petti. I'm now thinking of borrowing back a stiff net petti I gave to [livejournal.com profile] kambriel. Thing was from the '50's, I think, and was a great bell shape on a satin yoke.
madamemodiste: (1830's)
Whew!! 20 rows of cording later, and we have an 1830's-40's corded petticoat!



Well, I mean, it isn't starched yet, so I guess it's almost done. Couldn't wait to share, though!

Sorry the lighting isn't better. We're in the middle of a thunderstorm! It was fun taking pictures on our deck in that, let me tell you.
madamemodiste: (1830's)
15 rows of cords done. 5 left to go. I will finish this thing today!!!

Thanks to Loren, I watched the first two videos of "Lillie", a movie about the life of Lillie Langtry, while I corded. I'm loving the late 1870's fashions and even used my camera to take a picture of a black and purple gown at a ball for the King of the Belgians. Too bad the pic came out so badly...VHS doesn't pause well!! It looks blurry, or I'd share it.

I keep coming back to the same 1830's dress from this Danish museum. I know I'm too lazy to make it, but what if I'm not?

http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=10

They even give you a pattern. I just want the bodice section in the front. I don't have to explain why. I tried to type the directions into one of those translators, but it returned nonsense. Jason offered to translate it, and he said it says, "Take a dragon tooth and place it on graph paper". Not helpful, but cute!

In other news, I found this fabulous jet pin commemorating Queen Victoria's 50th anniversary as Queen.



I wish I had the skills to copy it in Femo or something. I really want to have it!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I've done 11 rows of cording so far. Half way done.

I saw an 1830's green silk gown on Ebay today. They don't show up there very often, so I thought I'd share. I love the sleeve treatment.
madamemodiste: (Default)
Over at the Belle Alley, I've been advised not to begin and end my cording rows in the same place for each row, or it will cause the petticoat to "collapse". ???

See conversation here:http://www.carolinabelles.net/vb/showthread.php?t=11716

What does this mean? Has this happened to anyone out there?

[EDIT] SITUATION EXPLAINED! Thanks, guys!!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
OK, I'm armed with several "How-to" websites for corded stays.

http://www.historicallydressed.com/research/tutorial-cordedpetticoat.html

http://www.angelfire.com/tn3/scottsladies/Corded_Petticoat.htm

http://miss-lottiegirl.livejournal.com/7619.html

I also have the lovely photo from the Met.

I think I'll cord every inch up to mid thigh. That's the plan, anyway. We'll see if that really happens!

Yesterday I bought:
~5 yards of Quilter's cotton from Joann's (I also need to make a tucked petticoat to go over the corded one, so 2.5 yards each).
~2 balls of "Sugar 'n Cream" brand crochet yarn in white
~1000 meters of white Gutterman thread (will it be enough with the thread already in the stash? Stay tuned!)

I washed and ironed my cotton, cut it in half and put the other half away for the tucked petticoat, and sewed one side seam of the corded petti. At that point, the husband was wandering around the apartment looking lost and bored, so we went out for a bit and then watched tv together, so I didn't get any more done.

TODAY

I think I should leave one side seam of the petticoat unsewn until the cording is done, shouldn't I? I would imagine the whole business will go smoother if it's a flat piece of fabric. I was advised NOT to do that, but to sew both seams before the cording.

So today I have to draw on my cording lines. I'll probably have to run out for more disappearing ink pens before the day is over!

But I promised myself I'd do some stupid financial aid stuff for school that I've been putting off, so I can't start until I do that. Off I go!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I will soon begin an 1830's gown, and it occurs to me I need to make undergarments first!

1) Corded petticoat
I love to cheat! Could I use lipcord (but I know I can find it cheaper) or home decorating piping?

2)Corset or stays
In Wives and Daughters, the girls seem to be wearing Regency-esque stays under their gowns. I saw [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's free pattern, but I need one that comes in multiple sizes 'cause I can't draft, so I'm looking to buy a pattern. I see the Past Patterns 1820's-1840's Corded Stay pattern has been well reviewed. I wonder if I could actually finish it in time for SalonCon, though? So much cording...yikes! I have 4 hat commissions to do as well as my own stuff, not to mention laundry and spending time with husband and friends! LOL! Is it as bad as it looks?
madamemodiste: (1830's)
That's frustrating. I was trying desperately to get screen caps of some of Cynthia and Mrs. Gibson's gowns, but it seems that in every second of every scene, they have a fan, hand, handkerchief, or shawl in front of their waistline!! Any scene in which their hands are otherwise occupied, the shot shows from the bust up, side, or back. GRRRR!

I did get some nice screen shots of the gossipy Mrs. Goodenough, brilliantly played by Elizabeth Spriggs :)

I've settled on a muave or muave/grey silk or taffeta for my 1830's gown. Now where to find it and at a reasonable price?? I'm still trying to find the perfect "gold green" shot silk for my purple sari regency gown.

1830's

Jul. 6th, 2008 06:46 pm
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I did absolutely nothing so far on my chemise a la reine today! Instead, I looked at 1830's gowns and watched The Other Boleyn Girl (it was ok - a little boring- a few pretty gowns).

I found this cool 1830's undergarment that seems to have wire sleeve hoops to get that nice horizontal giant sleeve look (from the Metropolitan Museum)



http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/hd/19sil/ho_1992.365_1987.238.htm

I guess it tied to the corset's shoulder straps?


Then we have ingenious hair ornaments. Nice way to attach the fake hair! I love it!


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