madamemodiste: (Default)
I had a brainstorm this morning, and it's either fabulous or horrid. Tell me! I have a Dracula's Ball on Saturday night, and I was thinking of making a pannier skirt of this ruffled fabric. I stuck my stays and panniers over top of my current Victorian gown (too lazy to remove current project, so just ignore it) and draped the fabric on top. Is this fabulous goth attire or awful? Remember, I'm not going for historical accuracy, I'm going for goth fabulousness.



And in the future, I can always use it as an under petticoat that won't be seen to further soften the pannier bones.


[Poll #1511495]

test shots

Nov. 30th, 2009 01:59 pm
madamemodiste: (Default)
OK, so here is a test of ideas...

With a grey silk sash to tie in the grey hem pleats:



and here is a velvet NF era overskirt I already have, to give an idea of the skirt with a black overskirt:



But ya know, there's no reason I can't also have a grey overskirt. That way I can put it with this as well as any black underskirt. Just a thought :)
madamemodiste: (Default)
As a treat to myself and a way to avoid homework, I made a Natural Form era underskirt. The inspiration was a 2 yard remnant panel of a fancy fabric I found for $8 at Jomar this year. The fabric: it has horizontal rows of looped tassel fringe about 2.5 inches long headed with black sequins on a black lace base. After seeing the popularity of horizontal trimmings on natural form era gowns, I thought, "Oh, the work is already done for me! All I have to do is baste it on the skirt fabric!" and off to work I went.

So now it's put together, but now I'm afraid it's awful. I'm having one of those Project Runway moments when you look at your garment and realize it might be terrible. Does it look like I ripped a tacky curtain down from the dressing room in a Victorian burlesque hall and made a skirt?? Tim Gunn's voice popped into my head, "This worries me. You have a lot to think about." Is it too textured? Does the fringe make it look furry? I don't want a skirt that looks like it was made for Sasquatch at the Oscars.



So now I think I need to use trim to "cut" the heaviness of the fringe panel. Perhaps a pleated sash of grey silk from the upper hip, across the front, to the lower calf of the opposite side? (See this fashion plate for the general idea. It seems all sorts of drapery and sashes were combined at once! http://www.bustledress.com/cgi-bin/z.pl/reset/article.lisa.20090326-05.html)
madamemodiste: (Default)
I'm going to attempt to make a version of this outfit for a party in 2 weeks. Wish me luck! (Luckily, I already have pre-box pleated organza trim for the skirt!). Anyway, I have an ivory linen with a think black pinstripe for the bodice. Should I use a plain ivory linen for the skirt? If I do, should I flat line it so it has more body or will it depend on the weight of the linen I choose?

madamemodiste: (Nadya Lev)
So I've been driving myself insane this evening (instead of doing my British lit homework) trying to figure out how to make the right kind of fichu for my polonaise. Is anyone else wearing a fichu? If so, do I just make a triangle if it's going to get tucked into the neckline?

I added additional yardage to my overskirt so it'll be nice and poufy, and then got too intimidated to start the pleating. I'm a little confused about how to handle the pointed part in the center back of the bodice. I'm hoping that when I get to it, it'll make sense. If anyone has advice for a visual learner, feel free to share :D

By the way, am I supposed to get anything in the mail from the Costume Con people once they are paid?

OK, ok...off to read tomorrow's assignment
madamemodiste: (Default)
Whew! Man I have a lot to do! I just started on the bodice of the Period Impressions polonaise and I find I'm not in love with it so far. Thank god [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau already warned me that it is short waisted. Wondering if I should have stuck to that Butterick pattern I already made up a few years ago after all as I think the back pieces are shaped better (3640). Well, we'll see. Don't expect the best fitting bodice! Makes me feel bad because this is silk taffeta and I can't usually afford such nice material.

I hope I get a chance to make some trim. School keeps getting in the way of my sewing! I also have to trim the lovely hat I got from [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau last summer, but that part will be fun.

I haven't yet worn my black 18th c stays AS stays, and I'm wondering 1)how black stays will look under large 1" repeating cream and silver stripes, 2) how it will change the fit of the bodice, and 3) will they actually be comfortable under a bodice when I can't access them to tug them about. Please don't let it be hot on April 30th!!

Is it awful to have black shoes with a silver and cream gown? It's all I have at the moment as most of my wardrobe is rather dark. I could make little shoe clip cockades of the dress material.

Oh and I WISH I'd had enough time to make a matching parasol! I have a black silk with a black handle, a white with black lace overlay with a blonde wooden handle, or a white sutler parasol I trimmed with venise lace and ruched white netting a few years ago. Which one do you think I should bring?
madamemodiste: (Default)
Has anyone gotten the silk shantung from Fashion Fabrics Club? They are running a good sale, and I want to know if it is nice for Victorian gowns.

Anyone know?
madamemodiste: (fabric shopping)
When Beth and I met up the other day, she had a gift for me! Many yards of a striped cream and silver silk and many yards of a solid silver silk!! She bought them and decided she wasn't going to use it, and instead of returning it (perhaps she couldn't?), she gifted them to me! I'm so lucky!



I know I usually see 19th century in fabrics, but I really see 18th century here. What should I make? If it helps you to visualize, the stripes are 1" each.
madamemodiste: (Default)
I got the buttons and button holes done. I admit, some of the button holes look as though I'd had a few drinks! I think my machine needs a tune up. I'll take it in Monday. Still need to do the decor on the cuffs, and it's done. Here's a preview shot



It kind of fits. The waist is still too big, the area right above my breasts is a smidge too small, but the jacket does button. I'm just not sure how comfortable it'll be. We'll see. Maybe I'll take [livejournal.com profile] bauhausfrau's advice and wear my 18th C. corset underneath (if it'll fit under there), so if the jacket feels too hot or too annoying, I can take it off. !!!

Now, since it's Halloween, I feel like I'm allowed to make it look a bit slutty. I was thinking of just wearing a short poufy skirt over my panniers with the jacket. The Dracula's Ball is crowded, so not many people see what you have on below your waist anyway. Should I do that or wear the original long black 18th C. skirt? And if I do that, should I wear colored tights with my black velvet platform shoes? Change the shoe laces to red satin?

Tonight I am attending two parties. I will wear my Steampunk Birdwatching ensemble, for which I got those birds from Michael's yesterday. I think I'll pop one on top of my hat and put another on the cane (yes, I got my steampunk cane back from Jason's friend, who was sprucing it up).

Now, which bird arrangement do you like for his outfit? #1 has 2 birds...one raven and one gaudy bird of paradise. The other is just the raven alone. Vote for your favorite!

VERSION #1


VERSION #2
madamemodiste: (Default)
I've never put pockets into anything before (except for one welt pocket once, but I forget how I did it), and the directions for this 18th c. riding jacket are confounding me!

Here and here are the directions.

Here is my pocket:



And another view here )
madamemodiste: (Default)
I got 3 yards of
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WFI&Product_Code=FLEBRK&Category_Code=

The color is less red than brown-red in reality. Can I dye this with RIT or will that not work? Before I send it back, I need to know.
madamemodiste: (costuming)
Not that I'm going to start sewing now, but I'd like to start thinking about my wardrobe for Convergence 15 aboard the Queen Mary next July. I see the rooms are decorated in the Art Deco style and that makes me want to have one 1920's outfit. Does anyone have any fashion plates or ideas for a 1920's outfit with a goth touch that would suit a curvy figure? Not that the 1920's ever "suited" a curvy figure, but one that wouldn't be totally awful, you know? What about a famous Paul Poiret harem pants outfit, a la Fleur Forsyte from The Forsyte Saga? Kambriel, I'll be coming to you for a headdress! Start brainstorming!

Oh, and I'm totally making two Titanic outfits (3 if I can get it together!!). I'm doing the Boarding Suit and I'm doing the flying dress. Now, I can do the boarding suit with the proper purple velvet accents, but I might go with black instead. Thoughts? Also, I could do the flying dress in the typical blue velvet and satin, but again, I might go black. Thoughts on that, too? I hear the original was black, so that makes me feel it's ok in my little costumer's brain.

The other day I ordered the Titanic butterfly comb and crocheted flying purse from Jill B. We'll see how the transaction goes this time.

Since this will be July, and California, will I die in the heat on board the ship? I was thinking "cool ocean breezes" would make these day outfits ok. Am I wrong?

OK, I really have to get ready for school or I'm going to be late for geology!
madamemodiste: (Default)
Whoo hoo! Not that I have any fabric yet, but my pattern is here MY PATTERN IS HERE!

Anyone have a link for some medium weight, red tone-on-tone floral brocade for the jacket (see previous entry for pattern)?

What do you think of this fabric for the riding jacket?

http://warehousefabricsinc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WFI&Product_Code=FLEBRK&Category_Code=JACQRED
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I made a mistake putting the skirt together. I didn't hem it before I gathered it and attached it to the bodice. Even though the directions said I could do that if I chose. So now it's all full and when I turn the hem under for the 5" deep hem, the lining runs around and sags and does weird things. I'm dealing with it, but it's been such a pain today. I'm disappointed because I really thought I'd have this baby done today so I could enjoy my weekend and make 1830's topiary hair.

I've finally got it turned under and pressed. I think from here I will serge the very end (already turned up)and hand tack it to the lining. Will that be ok?

So, still to do

1)hem
2)back closure
3)belt

Oh, and I should tell you that the bodice is lovely! The sleeves are so cute, too!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
Some patterns call for you to line sleeves with stiff netting...such as 1890's and 1830's. I don't bind the seam allowance or use a lining, so the netting rubs most uncomfortably into my arm. Other than binding it with bias tape, is there any other trick? Probably not, I figured I'd ask anyway!

Thanks!

By the way, the zig zag "Colleen Atwood" bodice is complete except for back closure and button decoration on the front. I think I did it!! Can't wait to show you when it's done!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
For SalonCon in 2 weeks, I'm making an 1830's evening gown of purple/black shot taffeta. I am using Heather's Romantic Era gown pattern and modifying it to have a bodice like this:

http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=10

Minus the fancy embroidery. If you click on the photo with graph paper, it shows the pattern for this gown.

So, I've never piped anything before and I need some encouragement! Getting around the points of the zig zags is very difficult!!

I've made the base, attached the ruched middle layer, and cut out the "zig zag" top layer. I want the edges of the zig zags on the top layer to be piped as well as the neckline. Here's what I have done. Am I anywhere close to doing this right???



The yellow circle is the area I did a closeup on in the next photo

madamemodiste: (Default)
I got some trim advice over on the Belle Alley. What do you think of this? I posted a photo with flash and with out so you can see that there are two different laces...a narrow one all around and the wide net lace.





Today I VOW to start my 1830's gown!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
Since you guys are so awesome at helping me find what I need, I have come to you, my sewing/crafting friends, once again for help.

I have been to Joann's and Michael's, but no luck. I have searched Ebay and Google, but I must be entering the wrong description.

I want long drop beads (1"-1.5" long), sort of like this (center bead):



In fact, I just love that necklace! Too bad it's so expensive on Etsy :( (Morning Glory Designs if you want to see their fabulous collection)

Anyway, I wanted to make earrings and a necklace for the 1830's gown (ahem, that I haven't started yet), and I want long drops in both pieces. Help to find this type of bead (not red...my gown is dark mauve/black shot taffeta), so maybe black? I'm not even sure if it's plastic or glass or what!
madamemodiste: (Default)
Over at the Belle Alley, I've been advised not to begin and end my cording rows in the same place for each row, or it will cause the petticoat to "collapse". ???

See conversation here:http://www.carolinabelles.net/vb/showthread.php?t=11716

What does this mean? Has this happened to anyone out there?

[EDIT] SITUATION EXPLAINED! Thanks, guys!!
madamemodiste: (1830's)
I will soon begin an 1830's gown, and it occurs to me I need to make undergarments first!

1) Corded petticoat
I love to cheat! Could I use lipcord (but I know I can find it cheaper) or home decorating piping?

2)Corset or stays
In Wives and Daughters, the girls seem to be wearing Regency-esque stays under their gowns. I saw [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's free pattern, but I need one that comes in multiple sizes 'cause I can't draft, so I'm looking to buy a pattern. I see the Past Patterns 1820's-1840's Corded Stay pattern has been well reviewed. I wonder if I could actually finish it in time for SalonCon, though? So much cording...yikes! I have 4 hat commissions to do as well as my own stuff, not to mention laundry and spending time with husband and friends! LOL! Is it as bad as it looks?

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