Simplicity 8881

[madamemodiste]

So I've begun the new Ren gown. I got out my Simplicity 8881 that I used 10 years ago only to find that the only piece that is cut out is the over skirt.

? o_O ?

I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out how that is possible. I made the dress. I'm looking at it right now. How is only the overskirt cut out of the pattern? I was just learning to sew then. Did the girl helping me loan me her pattern, and later I bought my own? There are no tracing marks on the pattern, so I didn't trace it. I have no memory of it! And here I thought I'd be one step ahead because I thought the pattern was already cut out! LOL!

One trick that girl taught me was instead of inserting boning, cut a sheet of plastic canvas to the shape of the front of your bodice and flatline it to your interlining to get that stiff, conical shape that was popular. I think something more period correct would be to use buckram or serious padding, but I am trying to use stuff in the stash and am not concerned with being period correct in this instance.

OK, I'm off to cut out fabric now! Wish me luck!

[edit] Ahh! The plot thickens! There are two copies of one of the pages of directions in the pattern bag. This proves there was once another copy of this pattern! I wonder what happened to it?

Comments

[degracieuse.livejournal.com]

Maybe the cat ate it?

[centuriessewing.livejournal.com]

Ah the Shakespeare in Love pattern.

The plastic canvas trick does give you the stiff shape but I think that would be very uncomfy to wear and give you no support.

Hmm The dress itself is a bit of a mismash of styles but for what it is trying to be, I think a pair of bodies would be worn under the gown. The gown itself would have minimal boning, or perhaps just a busk to keep the front point of the bodice from curling up.

Actually now it is going to bother me until I figure what it is trying to be. Bah. Off to stare at paintings for a bit!

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Oh, yeah, after staring at paintings I know it's not period correct. That long rounded bodice front is wrong. Other than that I have no idea as I haven't studied enough. I made this pattern 10 years ago and did the whole plastic canvas thing. I'm not saying it's perfect, but without stays it's better than nothing. It's not uncomfortable, either, I swear :) I'm just looking to make a pretty gown to have fun in at the Ren Fair :D

But after searching for info on the internet on this pattern for the last week, I see there is little info on this pattern. No one out there has yet (that I could find) critiqued/reviewed it for period correctness. It would be great if you could do that! I know one day I'd like to make a better quality gown and could use your expertise!

[centuriessewing.livejournal.com]

I hope I didn't come off as being all boot stomping "rar it isn't period" cause that wasn't my intention. I haven't actually looked at that pattern for a long time so it got my brain working on trying to place it somewhere.

I think I recall a few reviews of the gown, or dress diaries but that was some time ago. But yes that is a good idea, I should review the pattern for period correctness. =D I am away from all my sewing stuff at the moment, but I know I have that pattern stashed away somewhere.

And just because my brain will not let it go,

Era wise it looks like a loose mash up these two styles
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/MaryFitton.jpg
and
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

It's ok! I can see wanting to let a fellow costumer know if a path they are going down isn't what they think it might be. I really would like to know more about this period, but don't currently have the money or time to research it. I rely on my friends to give me the hints I need to get by.

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

I love that second portrait. I often arrive at the Faire alone and have to dress myself. I'm not looking forward to having to lace the back of my gown by myself again. Is the front of that bodice split all the way down? Could I do that and use hidden hooks and eyes to close it or would that be madness?

[ghost-ofa-rose.livejournal.com]

Oh, that second portrait is indeed beautiful. Gorgeous gown. I think you can get away with hidden hooks and eyes. I would certainly try it. Even if the bodice isn't split at the front, I think it can be done because of the kind of trimming and the hooks and eyes can be hidden by these trims.

[centuriessewing.livejournal.com]

I think the bodice is split all the way down and then might up the front with a hidden set of lacing strips and then hooks closed. The lacing strips would take the strain of the gown being closed and the hooks and eyes would hold it shut.

Or if you use just hooks and eyes the large coat sized ones should hold together well. I have yet to make that style of gown, but I used them on a doublet without too many gapping issues.

Few other paintings in the same timeframe/similar style

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60861613@N00/3931699170/sizes/o/in/photostream/

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Elizabeth124.jpg

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Elizabeth1.jpg
Hard to tell on this one but might be front opening bodice

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Elizabeth20.jpg

[madamemodiste.livejournal.com]

Oooh, thanks for the visuals. Very helpful! And I'm so glad I can make it so I can get into it by myself. Thanks for the help!

[marcine.livejournal.com]

Margo Anderson, who sells patterns for that era, did a review of that pattern. I'm not great at adding links to lj, but here's a try . Seems a decent base. Considering your other creations, I'm sure this will be great, too!

[curiouschilde.livejournal.com]

Ok.. just a quick tip on using hooks and eyes on these types of gowns.. don't put All the hooks on one side, and eyes on the other side. Reverse them.

example, cus i can't figure out the correct wording:
H E
E H
H E
E H
etc.

I've done a number of costumes that way. and it was period to have hook and eyes. I have that documented somewhere.
Plus, some of the shapes of period trimming will hide those if ya want.

Kat, if you have any questions.. lemme know. I'm home taking the day off of all my craziness.

[madamemodiste.livejournal.com]

That is great and helpful information. Thank you!

So I figure I'll do a piece of boning at the CF of each side and put the alternating hooks and eyes underneath. Any advice on spacing? 1" apart? 1.25" apart?

[curiouschilde.livejournal.com]

i would say no further that 1" apart. Boning definitely a good idea :) Keeps it all nice and straight.

[blackcat452.livejournal.com]

I can't wait to see what you do with it. When are you thinking of going to the renn fair?

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Not sure yet! One of my classes this semester requires us to go to local museums about 6 saturdays. I'll have to check the syllabus and see when I'm free.