Help with promenade jacket pattern...

[madamemodiste]

Has anyone worked with the free patterns from Tudorlinks.com? Particularly, this one:

http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/freepatterns/pe187604wpromjackpatt.html



It is just what I need, but I've never worked with a pattern I didn't cut out in "my" size. How do you enlarge and get the curvatures right? Is there a trick, or do you just guesstimate? I don't see anywhere when it might mention what size the "original" pattern is, so I don't know if it's waay too small or waay too big. I suppose, unless someone has already worked with this one, I'll have to make a muslin and find out!

Does the collar look to you like the collar for the TV 405 1872 Vest Basque? Without instructions, I'm lost, so I need all the help I can get!! If it does, then I can use the instructions from that pattern to help me put on the collar.

I appreciate any tips and tricks!

I plan to make it of black wool (if I can find any at Joann's) and a brainvelvet edge trim, and line it with some quilted satin. This will go over the brocade gown I recently made :)

******

And thank you for the previous help with the hat question I had!!!

Comments

[bauhausfrau.livejournal.com]

This is a topic that really deserves a LONG answer! But I'm stuck home with the boys (school canceled due to ice) so here's the short one.

There are a bunch of different ways you can scale up a pattern. The easiest is just using a copy machine. You can use a straight measurement (like the back shoulder seam on that pattern) as your guide to know when you've gotten it to the right size. You'll probably have to copy different parts and tape the final result together. Then you can cut out all the pieces and make a muslin and go from there. Remember that these patterns never include seam allowances.

If you've got a pattern with similar shapes (like from the same era) that you KNOW fits you can use this as a base and try to enlarge the new pattern accordingly or draft the new pattern's shapes onto the old one you know fits.

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Times like this I wish I lived closer to you!! Thank you, once again, for the online sewing advice!

[bauhausfrau.livejournal.com]

I know, it would be much easier to demo these types of things, wouldn't it? Not to mention more fun!

[waterhousesmuse.livejournal.com]

One way is to enlarge and grade the pattern. I'd recommend checking out advanced_sewing and the memories there.

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Thanks!

[witchkaito.livejournal.com]

I don't sew myself, but my dressmaker use it sometime. It's the standart copy scan from the old fashion magazines or from the reprint books of Dover Publishing.
I know she use the special mesurment system and I've seen in this books the instruction how to resize such pattern. As I understand it's not very difficult.
I can not find this instruction right now, but I'm sure you can find it in all Dover Pattern Books. If you can not, just write me and I try to scan it.

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Thank you so much for your reply :D I have received some instructions and will -hopefully- start tomorrow.

[witchkaito.livejournal.com]

Oh, not at all!
Ask if you need any help.
Also it's a very usefull book with the patterns, mesurments and cutting tips (if you haven't it)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0896760278/lacouturierparis

[prisbatty.livejournal.com]

it is a bit of a matter of guesstimates.

Draft the pattern on paper as shown (blow up on xerox if need be) than re draft by chalking on the 'correct' measurements for you in the spots needed... then free hand the curves in to look "right". remember you have to open or close armpit holes and such like as well as bust or waist.

Id suggest making a single layer dummy out of dollar fabric to try on before committing the wool. (only half will do... like the right or left half... gotz it?)

GAZOOKS... wish I were there to show you. Once one does a re draft once, it makes sense... but to explain it by internet or phone would be tricky.

[madamekat.livejournal.com]

Yeah, that's the advice I've been given over at the Belle Alley, too. You know your stuff, Lady! I went out to look for wool today (none, of course, because on Feb 1st, all one can find are "new spring linen and suitings". Grrr. Even the clearance section yielded nothing. I'm going to make it out of the black cotton velveteen I have that was earmarked for anther dress as I can always get more of that. I got some quilted cotton backed with batting for interlining warmth!

And I totally forgot to pick up the muslin for my mock up!! *head desk*