madamemodiste: (18th century gown)
2007-10-26 07:43 pm
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More progress on the 18th century gown

Today I constructed the over skirt. When I say constructed, ...yeah...it's more like an architectural moment than sewing!! Anyway, It went pretty well. I put my panniers on my mannequin and took piccies of the gown so far.



MORE PICCIES HERE!! )
madamemodiste: (18th century gown)
2007-10-25 09:52 am
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Progress pics!

Here are a couple progress pics. I've never made a saque-back gown before, so the back pleating was a bit tricky for me. Constructing the inner back lining with the grommet lacing was also a new concept!

Here's a long shot of the back. Because the pattern is so loud, it's hard to see the pleating. Oh well.


MORE PICS... PLUS AN EXTANT GOWN! )
madamemodiste: (Default)
2007-10-24 08:34 pm
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Progress with the 18th century gown!

I've made some progress today with the gown! Yay! But I need some help deciphering some tricky instructions.

I have a feeling only people who have made a saque back gown are going to be able to help with this one, but who knows!! OK. I'm attaching the bodice side front and back lining sections to the outer bodice side front section.

A finished garment looks like this from the inside:



As you can see, there is an inner bodice lining that laces up in the back, but it's covered by the outer shell that has the saque back drapery. Make sense? I hope so!

{EDIT: I think I got the help I need, but if you have any different ideas, feel free to share!}

So...

***********HELP!!!************ )
madamemodiste: (Default)
2007-10-20 01:31 pm

General inspiration

About to delve into my interview paper, but before I do, a little pretty is in order...



These are from Fancy Ephemera Paper Dolls.
madamemodiste: (18th century gown)
2007-10-11 10:25 pm
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Progress!!

You all deserved a progress picture for all your wonderful encouragement and help!



Here is the front and side front all sewn together. Of course, the center fronts are open, but I put them close together so you'd get a good idea. There is a weird placket/fold thing that goes all the way to the shoulder that creates the second seam. Not sure you can really see it in the picture, but there you go.

I know it's not much, but I was doing school work today.
madamemodiste: (extremely vexing)
2007-10-10 10:27 pm
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I need help already with my 18th century gown

So I'm at step one, and I've been trying to picture this for like a half hour. OK...

I was told to cut 4 fashion fabric and 2 interfacing of the center front piece. Why 4 fashion fabric?? Makes no sense to me. Also, I don't use interfacing. I am just using white cotton.

So the initial directions are...

1. "pin interfacing to wrong side of two bodice front sections, having raw edges even. Baste front opening and upper edges along seam line. To form channel for boning, stitch 3/8" from center front. Insert boning through channel. Bast remaining raw edges together.

2. With right sides together, stitch facing (I guess they mean interfacing?) to bodice front, leaving notched edges open between large and small dot, back stitch at dots to reinforce seam. Trim seam and corners, clip curves and to stitching at large dot.

3. Turn bodice front right side out, press, baste raw edges together."


Oye! Can someone put that in easier language?? The way I'm picturing it, they want me to make two front sections and pin interfacing to both in step 1. BUT they only told me to cut 2 interfacing, not 4, so how is that possible? OR they mean by "two bodice front sections" the right and left, as opposed to two pairs. Fine, so then where is the second set of fashion fabric used??

What makes more sense to me is to use 4 interlining and to sew them together to form one underlayer (or lining) in which the bone casing sits, then sew that to the fashion fabric so the bone channels don't show on the outside.
madamemodiste: (Default)
2007-10-02 09:47 am

18th Century gown inspiration

I wanted to give the ladies who are working on 18th century gowns some lovely inspiration. You probably have this book already, but I scanned an image from the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Dangerous Liaisons. This 1775 robe a la francaise is from the Kyoto Institute and was photographed in Paris in the Varengeville Room.




"Does THAT inspire you?"
~Satine
madamemodiste: (Default)
2007-10-01 05:12 pm
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Not on the same track...

It always works out this way. I'm never on the same page as the rest of my on-line costuming friends. If they are doing 1600's, I'm doing 1920's. Not long ago, everyone was making an 18th century gown. Now I'm about to be ready to make one for Halloween (after I finish a hat I've been commissioned to make. Yes, I know I said I wasn't taking any more commissions at the moment, but she was just so SWEET when she emailed me...hoping to change my mind. And of course she did!) Anyway, I feel all lonely with my MA gown. Does anyone know of anyone who is making one at the moment online?

I'm using a white poly taffeta with black flocked floral design almost exactly like this:



Yeah, yeah, not period fabric. I'm not going for that. I had to use what's in the stash due to limited funds, and it was between that and a purple taffeta. I thought the graphic black and white would be more fun. Plus I've been saving the purple taffeta for a bustle gown...surprise surprise.

The pattern I'm using is the newest Simplicity 18th Century gown with the hideous blue gown on the cover. Love the pattern, though. Why they had to make it up in that shiny crap, I have no idea.



I will be skipping most of the recommeded trim because my fabric is exciting enough! So the bodice and overskirt will be the black and white, and the under skirt will be black with a deep flounce.

Why is it that whenever I talk about this project, I want champagne and cake???