madamemodiste: (me 18th c.)
So here in Philly we celebrate Bastille Day at a big block party outside of Eastern State Penitentiary with champagne in the streets and a storming of the prison where our own Marie Antoinette throws down Tastykakes (local pastry co) exclaiming, "Let them eat Kake!"

It's fun! See? )

So it's usually 100 degrees on Bastille Day, so I decided to make a new cotton polonaise. Stealing a great idea from [ profile] bauhausfrau, I bought two packages of Shabby Chic white voile embroidered curtains at Target and made a skirt. Yay! So here it is:

This was my first experience leveling a skirt from the waist. I found it hard and I won't jump to do it again :) Without the advice of Ms. Amy J, I doubt I would have finished it (she advised I find an object that is the same height from the floor that I want the skirt to be (I used a cracker box), wrap a piece of twill tape around the waist, adjust the fullness evenly, and begin adjusting the hem from the top until the embroidered hem hits the top of the box all the way around)

The bodice will be a black and ivory stripe with pink and green floral ticking. I've had all this fabric in the Stash for several years and I'm so happy to finally get to this project. I hope I finish in time!!

So far today I've only cut out the fashion fabric and lining of the bodice and overskirt.
madamemodiste: (Default)
We are all in a tizzy over the arrival of the highly anticipated "Georgiana" 18th c. shoe by American Duchess Boutique. It's dyable silk! It's gorgeous! It's AFFORDABLE!!

Available for PRE ORDER April 1st

Since I'm writing on the fashions of the very influential Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire for my senior undergraduate capstone, I really like the choice of names.
madamemodiste: (me 18th c.)
I popped a full netted skirt over the steel panniers to soften the lines. Then when I put the petticoat and overskirt on over that, it looks more elegant and less like I draped fabric over two boxes! If you want to see, it's HERE and here's a side view for the hell of it.

The ball is tonight and I can't find my box of feathers since we moved. Not sure where I stashed it, but I think there's a big red ostrich plume in there. Will continue the search.
madamemodiste: (me 18th c.)
Lighting is still poor, but here it is without any trim. Since the fabric is so light, most trim I've played with weighs it down and pulls the fabric. Hrm...I think I'll leave it like this.

It's a go!

Jan. 14th, 2010 01:12 pm
madamemodiste: (Default)
With only one "Oh god, PLEASE don't" vote, [edit: turns out it was a mistake. No one vetoed the idea - whoo hoo!), and 22 more than 30 "It's fabulous, Baby" votes, it's nearly unanimous! I'm going for it!
madamemodiste: (Default)
I had a brainstorm this morning, and it's either fabulous or horrid. Tell me! I have a Dracula's Ball on Saturday night, and I was thinking of making a pannier skirt of this ruffled fabric. I stuck my stays and panniers over top of my current Victorian gown (too lazy to remove current project, so just ignore it) and draped the fabric on top. Is this fabulous goth attire or awful? Remember, I'm not going for historical accuracy, I'm going for goth fabulousness.

And in the future, I can always use it as an under petticoat that won't be seen to further soften the pannier bones.

[Poll #1511495]


Dec. 23rd, 2009 12:03 pm
madamemodiste: (Default)
What do you guys think of this trim for a francaise?

madamemodiste: (polonaise)
I just have a few minutes before I have to get ready for school, but here I am at the 18th century "Polonaiseville" tea Friday afternoon!

(I'm on the right)

...and with [ profile] bauhausfrau (she's on the right), who inspired Polonaiseville and organized the tea!

madamemodiste: (polonaise)
Hem overskirt

make and attach buttons and loops (acquire cream ribbon for loops?)

sew on hooks and bars

sew down neckline trim

make and sew down sleeve and cf bodice trim

oh yeah, stitch pinned sleeve hem
madamemodiste: (polonaise)
So as you may recall, I added an extra width of fabric to the polonaise overskirt to make it nice and floufy. I totally failed at getting it pleated onto the bodice. Epic fail. I had to remove the extra panel and just go with the original width to make it fit. *hangs head* I spent hours on this and wasted a whole sewing day, and since I barely have time left to begin with, this makes me frustrated. So I hand sewed the skirt to the bodice and it looks fine (though my stitching is really bad!).

Left to do on the poloniase:

Hem overskirt

make and attach buttons and loops (acquire cream ribbon for loops?)

sew on hooks and bars

sew down neckline trim

make and sew down sleeve and cf bodice trim

oh yeah, stitch pinned sleeve hem
madamemodiste: (Nadya Lev)
So I've been driving myself insane this evening (instead of doing my British lit homework) trying to figure out how to make the right kind of fichu for my polonaise. Is anyone else wearing a fichu? If so, do I just make a triangle if it's going to get tucked into the neckline?

I added additional yardage to my overskirt so it'll be nice and poufy, and then got too intimidated to start the pleating. I'm a little confused about how to handle the pointed part in the center back of the bodice. I'm hoping that when I get to it, it'll make sense. If anyone has advice for a visual learner, feel free to share :D

By the way, am I supposed to get anything in the mail from the Costume Con people once they are paid?

OK, to read tomorrow's assignment
madamemodiste: (polonaise)
I quickly made the rump pad for my polonaise gown this morning. Not the most expert thing I've ever done, but it'll do! Pattern by Winego.

And I solved the "I forgot to consider the rump pad when I did the petticoat hem" problem. Since there will be an overskirt, put the rump pad over the underskirt and under the overskirt. Problem solved!

As it was a beautiful day in the upper 80's, Jason and I spent the rest of the day at the park, so nothing else got done. I might show up at Costume Con in just 18th c undergarments!
madamemodiste: (polonaise)
So here's the bodice so far. Of course it occurs to me too late that I can't overlap the center front to close it or the stripes won't match up. Opps. I fit it assuming there would be overlap, so now I fear it will be too big. But these things have a way of magically working out. Maybe with the stays on it'll fit snug enough. Still have to fiddle with the positioning of the box pleated trim to make both sides have the same shape. Looks a little uneven at the moment. But here is my progress shot:

madamemodiste: (Default)
Whew! Man I have a lot to do! I just started on the bodice of the Period Impressions polonaise and I find I'm not in love with it so far. Thank god [ profile] bauhausfrau already warned me that it is short waisted. Wondering if I should have stuck to that Butterick pattern I already made up a few years ago after all as I think the back pieces are shaped better (3640). Well, we'll see. Don't expect the best fitting bodice! Makes me feel bad because this is silk taffeta and I can't usually afford such nice material.

I hope I get a chance to make some trim. School keeps getting in the way of my sewing! I also have to trim the lovely hat I got from [ profile] bauhausfrau last summer, but that part will be fun.

I haven't yet worn my black 18th c stays AS stays, and I'm wondering 1)how black stays will look under large 1" repeating cream and silver stripes, 2) how it will change the fit of the bodice, and 3) will they actually be comfortable under a bodice when I can't access them to tug them about. Please don't let it be hot on April 30th!!

Is it awful to have black shoes with a silver and cream gown? It's all I have at the moment as most of my wardrobe is rather dark. I could make little shoe clip cockades of the dress material.

Oh and I WISH I'd had enough time to make a matching parasol! I have a black silk with a black handle, a white with black lace overlay with a blonde wooden handle, or a white sutler parasol I trimmed with venise lace and ruched white netting a few years ago. Which one do you think I should bring?
madamemodiste: (Default)
Just sharin' my new fabrics...

I love me a 50% off sale!

And I'm a dork and only just discovered this FABULOUS Georgian hair how-to:
madamemodiste: (polonaise)
After much cursing, I finally wrangled the flounce into ruffles and got it sewn onto the skirt.

madamemodiste: (polonaise)
A while back, I bought the Period Impressions polonaise pattern in order to re-create the Duchess of Devonshire's floufy striped polonaise from the Bath Scene.

Also a while back, a friend gifted me with many yards of silver and cream striped silk. Perfect for this project!

Yesterday I began cutting out the fabric, and so far have put together most of the petticoat. Here is one of the flounce sections after it was pinked and frey-checked. Yay for costume movies for such a tedious job!

madamemodiste: (Default)
Thank you guys so much for the wonderful 18th century gown photos for my new fabric! Since I'm easily swayed and love to do group projects, I'm going to jump on the Polonaise Bandwagon and do Georgiana's gown from The Duchess (Thanks to [ profile] bauhausfrau for the screen shots!). [ profile] bauhausfrau even supplied me with a pattern that everyone seems to like: Period Impressions 1770 Polonaise and Petticoat pattern. Though one could also use Butterick 3640 (left hand version) in a pinch.

This all makes perfect sense as one of my favorite gowns from Marie Antoinette is her blue stripe polonaise (thanks to [ profile] padawansguide's Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes for the screen shots

All that floufiness is soo delicious!!

I think the fabric I have is a silk taffeta. I'll have to ask Beth for sure. Maybe it's faux? I don't know. It does seem to have a crispness to it, so I think it will work! I hope there is enough of the stripe to do both the overgown and underskirt plus trim!
madamemodiste: (fabric shopping)
When Beth and I met up the other day, she had a gift for me! Many yards of a striped cream and silver silk and many yards of a solid silver silk!! She bought them and decided she wasn't going to use it, and instead of returning it (perhaps she couldn't?), she gifted them to me! I'm so lucky!

I know I usually see 19th century in fabrics, but I really see 18th century here. What should I make? If it helps you to visualize, the stripes are 1" each.
madamemodiste: (Default)

It's weird having nothing on my dress mannequin...


madamemodiste: (Default)

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