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[personal profile] madamemodiste
So I've decided to make a new Ren dress this year out of stash fabric. I've had the same two for over 10 years and they are looking rather bedraggled. On the other hand, I'm glad I can still fit into them! Anyway, I recently acquired 3 yards of a pretty green cotton brocade with lions and crowns.





I figure it's enough to do an underskirt forepart and the sleeves. Then I have 10 yards of black cotton velvet for the overskirt and bodice. For trim, I have silver braid



I'm doing a combination of the new Simplicity 2589 and the "Shakespeare in Love" Simplicity gown pattern 8881. I noticed that the front of the bodice of 8881 (the long, rounded part) appears nowhere in Elizabethan portraits that I can find, so I want to eliminate that, but I like the shoulder and sleeves.

So it will resemble this dress of Elizabeth (click the link to see the portrait):

http://elitechoice.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/queen_elizabeth.jpg

And here's my sketch of where the fabrics will go:



Here's where I need some advice

I'm just not sure if I should use the "attach to skirt" method in 8881 (which looks actually cartridge pleated) and just reshape the front to a modest point, or the method used in 2589 (which claims to be cartridge pleated, but just looks pleated to me if we believe this person followed the directions in this dress diary).

And I want to use a fabric border at the front and bottom edges of the black velvet overskirt that I can put the silver trim over, but I'm not sure what. I have some purple taffeta?? Because I have silver trim, I can't use any gold colored fabric.

So let me know what you think about these two questions! Thanks, everyone!

Date: 2010-08-24 02:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] soldiergrrrl.livejournal.com
I've heard really good thins about the 8881 pattern.

Also, the combo of purple and green sounds lucious to me. :-)

Date: 2010-08-24 02:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] isabelladangelo.livejournal.com
Oh, pretty!

I noticed that the front of the bodice of 8881 (the long, rounded part) appears nowhere in Elizabethan portraits that I can find, so I want to eliminate that

Elizabethan, no. But Jacobean, oh yeah.

http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/extant.html - If you scroll down to the "Baroque" dress, you'll see the long dipped center front.

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady32.jpg

http://www.wga.hu/art/d/dyck_van/1portrai/genoese3.jpg

..and a bunch more from about 1615 until about 1630 or so.

Given the design, have you considered Simplicity 3782? It might be easier to follow that than to try and mesh two together...

Date: 2010-08-24 02:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamemodiste.livejournal.com
Ahh, I see, so that pattern is sort of a mish mosh of Elizabethan and Jacobean? OK. Thanks for the help on that!

Well, I am looking more at Elizabethan, so I'll stick to the plan (and the portrait of Elizabeth I posted). I do have 3782, and plan to make it one of these days (the smaller inset photo), but since the other two patterns are already cut out, I'll go with those. Any advice on which cartridge pleating method I should go with? I can't help but feel I should just do 8881 and change the bodice point. I made it years ago and get lots of compliments.

Date: 2010-08-24 04:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] isabelladangelo.livejournal.com
Honestly, I suck at cartridge pleating. :-) I just gather or knife/box pleat the skirts of my gowns to the bodice.

I'd go with just using 8881 and changing the bodice to a point though. I'd be a bit fearful that the two different pattern pieces fit together differently and would make the outfit not piece together right.

Date: 2010-08-24 09:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] blackcat452.livejournal.com
I can't wait to see it. I've been working on a new dress for the renn fair too.

Date: 2010-08-25 11:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
Yay! So which pattern are you using and how is it going?

Date: 2010-08-25 10:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] blackcat452.livejournal.com
I changed my mind for the billionth time, now I'm working on an Italian gown, extremely modified from some RH patterns. I hope it turns out OK, I have a tendency to make things much more complicated then they need to be. BTW, I love that brocade!

Date: 2010-08-25 03:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lmcbeth.livejournal.com
Hi Kat,
to make sure I understand your question on the skirts, are you asking for opinions on which bodice pattern to use?

If so, I think you should just go with the bodice and skirt from 2589 since it seems to already be more of the shape you're going for.

And I like the idea of using a taffeta guard because it will hold up well...under the silver trim, I think the purple would look really cool.

Date: 2010-08-25 06:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lmcbeth.livejournal.com
Uh, I'm kind of slow and realized I misunderstood. Ooops! I agree with isabelladangelo, modifying the bodice on 8881 would probably be the best route so you know the pieces go together.
Edited Date: 2010-08-25 06:17 pm (UTC)

Date: 2010-08-26 09:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] saharazara.livejournal.com
The person in the dress diary didn't do the cartridge pleating called for on 2589. She says it looked to intimidating. So, I'm not sure the picture helps. I think on renaissancefestival.com Casche did the 2589, if you want to get an idea of what the pleating ended up looking like.

Date: 2010-08-26 09:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] saharazara.livejournal.com
Gah - nevermind, she didn't use the pattern for the skirt, only the bodice. Sorry!

Date: 2010-08-26 09:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
You're right, she did say the pattern called for cartridge pleating! Good to know :)

Date: 2010-08-29 06:14 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ghost-ofa-rose.livejournal.com
I'm really looking forward to this one. I'm curious about the simplicity tudor pattern. I have a new tudor gown planned, but I'm still debating if I'm going to use the reconstructing history pattern (which I do have, but I had some issues with it) or if I should buy this simplicty pattern.

I love you colour combo! And that lion/crown fabric is gorgeous!

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