madamemodiste: (extremely vexing)
[personal profile] madamemodiste
Hrm...this is not working out. When I put a paper mockup together, the shape of the bottom is all wrong. The pink lines show where it should fall, and the red lines outline where it falls in reality.



*disappointed*

OK, I took scraps of tracing paper and added to each pattern piece to make it the right shape. God, I hope I'm doing this right. I'm flying by the seat of my pants!!



Better?

Date: 2008-02-02 08:31 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
God, I hope I'm doing this right.

From my draping classes, you are :D Next time you make a mock up you might want to leave a deep seam allowance on pieces you're unsure of, like that hem, and sharpie in the pattern's hem line so you can see it. That way if it's right you just cut off the extra, and if you need more you just pin what's there instead of having to add more.

Date: 2008-02-02 08:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamemodiste.livejournal.com
Thank you!! I need all the tips I can get!

You aren't logged in...who am I thanking?

Date: 2008-02-02 10:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] auroraceleste.livejournal.com
Oops. It was me.

Date: 2008-02-02 09:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] padawansguide.livejournal.com
This is bascially how I sew - I'll mock something up, and then mark in pen or pencil where I want the lines to be, or add on fabric like you have to get the shape I want. Then I take everything apart, cut new pieces (making sure I include seam allowances where I've changed thigns), baste it together again - lather, rinse, repeat until you're happy with the shape and fit! :-)

Date: 2008-02-02 10:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamemodiste.livejournal.com
OK, so I'm not a loon? OK, well, I AM a loon, but not for tackling my project in this manner! Thank you for the encouragement!

Date: 2008-02-02 10:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] padawansguide.livejournal.com
No, not at all! You're doing fine! :-)

Date: 2008-02-02 09:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sarahlizzi.livejournal.com
here's the thing - it's not you, it's the pattern. it's an old pattern from peterson's magazine, which means that it's meant to be scaled up with a sloper specific to peterson's (most likely). that's why it's not proportional. here is an explanation from peterson's of how to scale up w/o actually having a custom sloper (though you can find them on ebay - I remember [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson finding one some time ago.

for straight-up, uncomplicated enlargement, you can use patterns out of patterns of fashion, the cut of womens clothes or any of the hunnisett books - they've all been scaled appropriate without any crazy mind-boggling disproportionate math involved.

in any case, you're probably better off continuing w/the draping method you've started - you obviously have enough experience sewing that this will work out, even if you're new to draping/drafting.

and the promenade jacket looks lovely. can't wait to see how it turns out!

Date: 2008-02-02 10:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamemodiste.livejournal.com
I had read those instructions and tried to enlarge them myself using a grid, but I couldn't get the curves right. At least now I don't feel so bad about having a hard time now that you've told me about the sloper.

I have Patterns of Fashion I&II, but I have the same trouble with those. It's nice to look at, though!

Thanks again for the encouragement!!

Date: 2008-02-03 12:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] prisbatty.livejournal.com
you are doing great

exactly what our sisters and brothers have done for centuries...

(Minus the kinkos part maybe...)

HUG

Date: 2008-02-03 12:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] prisbatty.livejournal.com
ps
Wool can be found in the sewing district for reasonable.

Consider also Uber clearance at marshals or something. Might be the right time of year. Find a few coats of the same design/ dye lot and you will probably have enough to cut pieces. That is, if you are lamenting the cotton velvet option.

Date: 2008-02-04 03:24 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] standgale.livejournal.com
When I enlarge a pattern, I usually end up thinking it would have been easier to just draft the damn thing from scratch.
So you're doing fine :D
The difference in lighting between the two pictures makes it look like you were there from dusk through to mid-morning draping it! Hopefully that's not the case.

Date: 2008-02-04 03:57 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] madamekat.livejournal.com
lol! No, it was a matter of about a half hour between the pictures.

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