madamemodiste

Here is the moodboard I created for this project. Remember I decided to scrap the satin taffeta for velvet lapels instead. And here is the finished gown:



I hear there is an mourning art exhibit near my house, and an open house on Saturday. I want to wear this to the event, though I suspect no one would have worn moire bengaline as a half mourning fabric, that's what I had in the stash! Yes, I took creative liberty again.

More for personal reference

Today I got back to the 1895 walking suit. Made the lapels twice as I screwed them up at the last minute. Once done, I got the velvet collar and lapels on. Then I made the center front faux blouse. I discovered that using such a stiff lace wasn't the greatest choice because of the gathering that is involved, but I made it work. Wished I had white hook and eye tape as I looked at all the hooks and eyes I need to sew on. Considering ordering some. At that point, it was 5pm and I knew I'd never finish the suit to wear tonight, so I picked up a side project: pvc short sleeved shrug.

got pieces cut out, sewn together, sleeves made (and one made twice when a pin got jammed under the needle, putting a big hole in the fabric. Opps!) and sewn on. Stopped at 7pm to start cleaning as I think J's friend is coming to the club with us tonight.

Once again, neither project finished to wear tonight. Costume fail.

Last month I started an 1890's walking suit. If you forget, GO HERE to see the entry complete with pattern and fabrics. I've made a change to the fabrics, though. Instead of doing the lapels and collar facing in black satin taffeta, I'm doing it in black cotton velveteen.

I finished the skirt a few weeks ago, but turns out I hemmed it on the wrong height setting on my mannequin, and it was too long. Doh! So today I fixed that. I am the WORST hemmer in the world, so please, I beg you, ignore the hem when I post photos. It's really bad. One of the reasons I don't do commissions! I also started adding a strip of polyester horsehair braid to the hem so it would sit right. I ran out before I finished, so that will have to wait.

Over the past few weeks I have been slooowly cutting out the pieces to the bodice. Some I had to cut 6 of, so this has been taking a while as I lose interest in cutting very easily. For my own reference, I'm going to list what I got done.

Sunday: Finished cutting out lining, made markings, made double layer interlining with boning (where applicable), flatlined to fashion fabric, sewed all bengaline bodice pieces together, pinned and sewed on black velvet ribbon trim. Movie in DVD player: Middlemarch

Progress photo:



Monday: Sewed together jacket hem facing and attached to jacket, flatlined sleeve pieces, sewed together, turned under for hem (hand sewn), and made sleeve vent (slightly incorrectly, but it works/ also hand sewn). Fixed skirt hem and began pinning on horsehair braid. Movie in DVD player: The Way We Live Now

Whew! I can't believe this project is finally done. Tough to photograph this fabric, so I took it out on the balcony. The shadows from the railing kind of got in the way, but the color is accurate on my screen. Made of a purple/black shot poly taffeta, black lace, and black braid.



( click here to see more views of this gown )

I loved the 2001 mini series "Victoria and Albert". I have always loved to gaze upon the Butterick pattern for Victoria's coronation gown, but at the time of it's release, I didn't imagine a use for it. Now I do. BUT, according to the Great Pattern Review, the pattern is terrible (sleeves are a pain or something). With the upcoming release of Young Victoria, I decided I didn't care and was going to pick it up anyway. It's never available in my size on Ebay, and today, there it was as a cheap Buy It Now. See, I just know that once the movie is released, this OOP pattern will suddenly become expensive. So anyway, there you go. I bought it, and I am pleased.

In other actual sewing news, I did do a wee bit of work on the purple NF gown on Thursday. I finished the drawstring casings for the back poufs, tacked up the pleats, pinned in tapes to keep the poufs in place (I don't tack so I can take them out and wash/iron) and made the big bows. I do love an ass bow, and this gown has three! So now I need to put in the closure and start on the bodice.

Here's a poorly lit shot of the back. It needs something to break up all that purple, though, don't you think? The actual gown has no trim in the back aside from a bit of lace at the bottom, so I didn't put any in. Suggestions?

I got the overskirt front/sides drafted and made



( See side view here )

I have cut out the panel for the back poufs, but I still have a ways to go to make that part, but I'll photo document the process for my future reference and yours.

Aside from those missing 3 buttons that I talked about in a previous post, the jacket is done!





Even over a hoopskirt the jacket is still full enough that you don't see the 14" what-do-you-call-them...slits? on each side that help accommodate fullness in a jacket. This is one full coat! The entire hem of the jacket was slipstitched by hand. I did that while watching the final DVD of The Forsyte Saga, which contained such yummy Edwardian-1920's fashions.

Weird, I went to Joann's with the idea that I'd get metal buttons for the tweed jacket. I even had 12 metal buttons in my basket when I saw these faux leather ones, and promptly changed my mind! I still need three more because Joann's only had 9 in stock. They promised they replenish buttons within a week, but we'll see. I've seen them out of basic black cotton for weeks!

So that's all I've gotten done so far today because I had to go to the DMV to renew my driver's license and run errands.

Whew!! Cutting out 3 layers of large pattern pieces takes seemingly forever! I suppose if I had a cutting mat and rotary cutters I could do two layers at once, but I can never seem to keep them smooth and neat if I try to cut two different fabrics at once. Anyway, they are cut out. Now to pin the flannel to the wool and baste them together.

So yesterday I finished that purple petticoat. Not posting a pic because it's a plain old purple taffeta petti on a drawstring. No trim or fancy stuff.

Today I'm working on getting rid of my beautiful red bengaline. I kind of wish I hadn't used it to make that 18th century riding jacket (though it is lovely) because I would have had enough to make a complete Olenska gown (bodice is done, so I could have made underskirt as well as overskirt). Now I only have enough to make an overskirt. But I can't change what's done, and I can always wear the black underskirt.

So today I'm making the TV324 Long Draped Overskirt. Who knows. There might be enough left over to use as pleats on an underskirt, right? I'll know when I'm done cutting.