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Following the look of the fashion plate, I added a net draped front panel and 8" wide double-scallop edged lace to the front panel side seams.

side view here! )
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So you'd think that a person in the middle of Fall semester, who is moving in less than 3 weeks should NOT be taking on a new project. I took a week off of sewing and I was just itching to make something, and of course it's better to use some Stash before I move, right??

So I looked through the Stash and saw I still had a bunch of that black velvet flocked rose print taffeta, and a bit of black/red shot taffeta. Then I pulled this out of my "do to one day" files:

From Harper's Bazar in 1884, it is listed as a "toilette for dinners, receptions, weddings, or any full-dress occasion where a high-necked dress may be worn". I plan to make it with 3/4 sleeves, which I have discovered was commonly done for evening dress with a high neck.

The bit of red taffeta will be the skirt center front panel, sleeve cuffs, and ? I haven't decided which TV bodice pattern I'm using yet.

Started cutting last night, but didn't get far before the season premier of Heroes came on, and sewing had to stop (Jason sometimes complains if I sew through our tv shows :)

I made one mistake already...I forgot to cut the front panel longer so it could drape like in the fashion plate, so it will have to do. I'm thinking of doing some bows up the skirt front anyway.
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I totally forgot to show a photo of my completed NF era evening bodice! You remember, perhaps, that the sleeves were extremely sleevil, but I conquered them anyway.

(since I was working on two different projects at once I had the wrong skirt on the mannequin when I took this photo)

And here I am wearing it to the Drac's Ball!

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Hello! I finished the black and white NF era gown that I have simply named "Donna's Dress" since she inspired it!

I wore it this past weekend to Belvidere Victorian Days in NJ. It sort of drizzled all day, but we made the most of it!

Made entirely of cotton from the Truly Victorian 1882 tea gown pattern with the neckline from the TV 410 1873 polonaise, and a "Victorian revival" white blouse underneath purchased at the mall.

Please ignore the alien cat in the background. She is clearly engaging in shenanigans.

As you can see, I paired the overdress with a striped skirt I made several years ago. The parasol frame is circa 1890's and was recovered in net and lace by me and mostly Beth because I was distracted putting in an offer on a house the day she visited.

Here is a link to photos from the day:


Aug. 15th, 2009 09:19 pm
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Yay, I won 1st place in the gothic category for the bustle dress contest for my Lady Dragon gown and 2nd place for my black and white striped "Buccaneers" gown in the day gown category!!!

Congratulations to all the winners!! You all did an amazing job!
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So I began cutting out fabric for an evening bodice that can go with either this new overskirt or any of my other NF skirts. So I have to make it from an all black taffeta so it can mix and match. That means I need to make removable trims to match each skirt. It will have an open square neck, short draped sleeves (sort of like the girl on the right) and a long pointed back hem.


And in an unrelated note, here is a pretty fashion plate from the New York Public Library online catalog.

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It needs a waist closure and a back hem, but it's done. Unless I decide to add lace trim to the pannier hem.

The underskirt used here is the same one that goes with the Lady Dragon gown (TV 221).

See More Here )

What I really like about this overskirt is it can be worn with either proper Victorian underskirts, or to jazz up any long skirt.
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I've been slowly working on a new NF overskirt from the TV 326 Hermione overskirt pattern. I'm doing the panniers and back in black taffeta, and the front apron in that black and red stripe taffeta I got recently. It's turning out cute, and I hope it doesn't make me look huge (and not in the good way).

Here's a sneak peek

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This is the bustle I worked on Fri/Sat and wore last night. I'm really happy with it, but next time I'll cut the bustle stay pieces narrower.

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For summertime, I made a knee length steampunk bustle skirt. It's also great to show off boots that normally are hidden by my dresses. Jacket is from the new "Cirque 21" line at Forever21.

I even made a new bustle for it because my current one has an ankle length built-in petticoat that this skirt is too short for. See Laughing Moon hoops and bustles pattern, view E.
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LOL! No attempt at stripe matching, but as I said to someone else this evening (morning?), it's nothing a good bow and a strong personality can't conceal. Took me a while to get the notched collar as I was attempting to follow the directions and they were a wee off on the collar (which is weird for a TV pattern, and how I got into trouble because I trust every word). Once I ignored what it said and trusted my own instincts as well as some advice from Heather herself, the collar came out fine.

Then J and I drank wine and watched "He's Just Not That Into You . OMG, that movie is SO GOOD!! I was all "eh" about it from the previews, but really, go see it. J enjoyed it, too (no, really, otherwise he'd have been making jokes about turning it off like he does when I watch The Age of Innocence, and wandered away to play video games)

Oh, right, the dress! I also put all 20+ yards of the organza trim into a pot to tea dye it, but it totally didn't turn out like my test strip. I apparently needed more tea, but I put in all I had, so oh well. It barely stained this time, but that might be on the bare edge of "good enough" as I just needed it to not be glaring white. Anything but glaring white. Time is of the essence, so it'll have to do.
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Sleeves and cuff:

Last night I made the sleeves. They are unlined, but the directions do not have you flat-fell the seams, but only tell you to press them to one side and stitch the seam allowance down 1/4" from the seam. Leaves the edges all raw (since I forgot to serge the sleeves). Another thing I don't like about the sleeves is the cuff. The cuffs do not meet edge to edge like they are supposed to, but are an inch too short to do so. In addition, the way they have you attach the cuffs leaves the raw edge of the cuff showing just inside the sleeve! They say you can hand stitch it down "if you want". Yeah, I want.

Here's a pic of the sleeve with the raw edges of the cuff waiting to be stitched down so they don't flip back up and wave at everyone. You can also see the top stitched sleeve seam allowance.

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I finally got around to holding up the white box pleated, black rolled hem organza I have for this dress, and I realized my precious linen is really ivory. Oh no! The white is GLARING. What to do?


Lemon tea!

No, not to calm me down, to dye my poly organza trim. I wondered if it would take the tea dye, but it did. Yay!

See the difference between the tea-dyed test strip of organza and the glaring white organza? Yay, I'm so glad it worked!
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I'm so excited! Jason's motor duster looks like something sort of! I made my first notched collar tonight whoo hoo!

Now to do the other side, but that is for tomorrow.

I also washed and dried all the linen and cotton for my own gown tonight. I'm hoping to start my own gown tomorrow.
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Well, between household chores and enjoying the weather, I didn't finish the bodice of the Lady Dragon dress. It still needs sleeves, boning, buttons and buttonholes, trim, and a hem. Oh well! But I did finish the skirts.

Here are some PHOTOS from yesterday afternoon. )

We also took some photos of me wearing them (paired with a brocade corset), but we left the camera in the car, so I'll post those later.
madamemodiste: (Nadya Lev)
Well, since it is a Dracula's Ball and hence a goth event coupled with the fact that my last three gowns were very colorful, I've decided to go with all black for this one. Back to the old roots!

I didn't get much done yesterday because I was researching, it was lovely out, and I don't feel like being pressured for this project.

I got the TV 221 tie back underskirt cut out and mostly sewn together out of plain black taffeta. I think I'm going to trim it with self fabric pleats and black lace tiers. I might do the bodice and overskirt in the black dragon brocade satin. I haven't decided what pattern to use for those two elements yet.
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Here's my interpretation of those "frock coat" Victorian gowns I posted a few weeks ago.

The faux vest and frock coat are modified from the TV 1882 Tea gown pattern. Skirt is a modified version of the 1878 tie back skirt. Material is all cotton.

see more here )
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This fashion plate totally needs an amusing caption!

"The colored plate for the present month displays two beautiful and original designs for yachting costumes; the second one designed especially for the lady guests and members of the New York Yacht Club, and containing it’s colors, it’s pennant inserted as a panel, and insignia. The material os fine blue cloth, combined with velveteen, and barred with pieces of redcrepe de chine, upon which the cross is embroidered in red purse silk. The facing of the interior is twilled silk to match the cloth, and the lining if any is used, is silk also for lightness, but dark blue linen drilling is very good for yachting purposes, if light weight is not so much an object as economy.

The red, white and blue costume is a charming combination of the national colors. The blue may be cloth or flannelette, the white vest and panel pique, corded silk or sicilliene. The jacket must be fine red military cloth, with band of corded silk for cuffs, to match that upon the sailor hat. The hats are simply straw of sailor shapes, covered with the dress material and trimmed to match the costumes; officers buttons are sometimes copied to make the costume complete."
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I made some progress on the Frock coat dress. I made most of the skirt today! It still needs buttons up the edges of the striped panels, but you get the idea. The scalloped panels were a pain, but worth it. I really like them.

Lace cape

Apr. 4th, 2009 05:46 pm
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At least I finished something! Beige satin overlaid with black net lace.

Butterick B4419 View A


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August 2011

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